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Thursday, 13 August 2015

My Home, My Village


My Home, My Village 

A Village in a Greek District

When Greeks meet each other they will often ask each other where they are from. If Takis is asked where he is from he’ll probably say, ‘I’m a Greek from Alexandria,’ and then is questioned further he might say that his mother is from Lemnos and his father from Ioannina. If I’m there watching I’ll notice a look of warm affection cross the face of the listener as they respond. And then I listen while they tell their association with one or both places.
Ioannina, Northern Greece
Alexandria, Egypt

There are few large towns (Comopolis and Megaloupolis) in Greece and yet many, yet many small villages (Horios), plus hundreds of inhabited islands. The Greeks particularly enjoy village life and even though they may have moved to live in cities and each family has their ‘own’ village that they return to for Easter and for summer holidays. Because the village may not be know it is easier to identify the district in which the village lies, for instance, from the Peloponnese, Macedonia, Crete, Ioannina. Lemnos however, being the 8th largest island will be known. So a neighbour might say, I come from Lemnos but my parents are from the Peloponnese.

English Counties

If I’m asked that question, ‘Where are you from?’ I’ll probably first say England and then add some of the counties I’ve lived in, ‘I was born in Kent but went to school in Surry, Hertfordshire and Hampshire, so I suppose I come generally from the South of England.’
Bournemouth in Hampshire
Canterbury in Kent

The county you come from is quite important to an English person and most counties are very distinctive, in dialect and history. (That is why it feels very disturbing to find out some have recently been realigned and renamed)

The definition of ‘village’ is very much about place, though often we do take the ‘cozy’, ‘secure’, ideas associated with village lifestyle and apply them to other situations.

Towns and Cities and Villages
 When is a town a village or a city a town? 

In England, that land where they call surgeons, ‘Mr’ not ‘Dr’ they often call the larger cities ‘towns’. Especially when living in a nearby small town, and talking about going into the city one often says that you are going ‘up to town for the day’. Probably indicating that you are going to the center, an area that was once the whole town, (and in many place once surrounded by a Roman wall), but now is this center will be surrounded by a greater area (e.g. Greater London).

And sometimes even if you live in a town you’ll affectionately call the center, where the main shops are located ‘the village’.

In Australia the term ‘village’ is often used in reference to small planned communities such as retirement communities, or shopping districts, and to tourist areas such as ski resorts, while small rural communities are usually called ‘townships’ and the larger settlements are know as ‘towns’.

I’m calling Myrina and Emerald ‘villages’, only because there are similarities, and the cities and towns in both Australia and Greece are much larger with more permanent facilities. However, while Myrina is known locally as a ‘town’ and the ‘capital’ of the island, and Emerald is called a ‘township’, in the Australian sense of that word by labeling both these places ‘villages’ I’m indicating they are not towns in the full modern sense of that world, neither are they hamlets.

Choosing Myrina, Lemnos, Greece

 









Lemnos is the 8th largest island of Greece. It covers 477 square km. Myrina is its principle settlement.


Myrina population in the 2011 census was 5,711, but when outlying smaller hamlets of Kaspakas 792, Platy 785, Thanos 451 and Kornos 267 are added to the municipal unit this number swells to about 11,006.
 




















In Myrina there was the appeal of the natal home for Takis, the familiarity of having visited family there previously. This was an important reason for taking up the project of renovating the house, to discover the basis of those memories and of those that had been passed on to him by his mother.


Some original hopes have been frustrated (like an original plan to turn the house into a small hotel) and some have been fulfilled, especially that of offering a yearly adventure, and the chance to see the world from another perspective,

Choosing Emerald, Victoria, Australia

 











The Dandenongs are home to over 100,000 residents and the area is popular with visitors, many of whom stay for the weekend at the various Bed & Breakfasts through the region. Emerald’s population in the 2011 census was 6,813, but when outlying smaller hamlets of Menzies Creek 1,300, Clematis, 3,800 are added this number swells to about 11,613.

 















The choice of Emerald accommodates our present needs, we live close enough to family that we can regularly entertain those living nearby, it has room for a garden I will see develop over the years. 






Emerald has become ‘home’ as it is now where we mostly live and increasingly it is where we can look after ourselves in old age. There are difficulties. Takis find it cold in winter (always four degrees cooler than Melbourne) and I question if I can cope with garden as I age. But it has opportunities, spaciousness, with old friends able to visit, plus new friends.

Sunday, 9 August 2015

Greek Laws: Revoked, Interrupted, Repeated


Greek Laws: Revoked, Interrupted, Repeated.

Confusion.............

According to statistics it seems that Greeks feel depressed and lonely, that many are out of work and that salaries are low, but that their life expectancy is longer than most Europeans, they eat healthier, and they retire earlier. Should we feel sorry or envious?

Then, when it comes to education, we hear the same kind of confusing stories; that Greece has the highest rate of university degree holders and that its educational system is better than other countries, but also that the education level is lower than other EU countries. And, I’m always being told by friends with children that they have to send them out to private evening schools to catch up and pass exams. What does this mean?
 

I’m guessing that this kind of disconnect is about incorrect statistics.

 








I wrote a blog recently about the long term difficulties that Greece has to deal with in terms of its history and geography. But Governance is also a problem.


It's also about Episodical Governance.

 






















Previous governments have tried to deal with the Greek problem of students, with the thousands of so-called ‘eternal students’ enrolled at Greek universities who take ages to complete their courses. Evidently laws were passed in 2007 and again in 2011, and again and again. I believe the latest move by the Syriza government has been to revoke what the previous government did about this problem. They can again take as long as they like to get a degree. Why these change of faces?

I’m guessing these continual changes happen because of pressure put on the government by unions, by students, by wealthy parents.


In the last couple of years all in Greece were aware of the shut down of ERT, the government media station. The previous Samaras government laid-off 2,600 employees and closed the broadcaster down for a month. But this closure as an indication of the government’s commitment to cut back an excess of civil servants did not seem sincere when ERT was reopened with 2,000 workers as contract workers. And then the Syriza government continued to revoke the previous by move by hiring them all back!

There is a plethora of various laws and restrictions in Greece that render everything so difficult, and a plethora of laws disregarded that make everything so unpredictable. The result? Folk gossip and argue, and shout and riot, and march and wave manners, and re-elect new governments. While we were in Greece this year the tone of arguments, and of debates on the TV, spiraled upwards, and upwards. There would be five faces on the panel, all discussing and disagreeing with at each other. Then there would be ten faces around a huge table, shouting over each other.


Ordinary folk took to the street; they were worried by their government, by the media. It is the way things are done in Greece. Short elderly men in checked shirts, elderly ladies dressed in black and wearing glasses and they blamed the troika, the Germans, the EU. Reforms had been tough, but they had also been blown up into dramas of Ancient Greek Proportions. 










The latest government called the wrath of the Gods down on the EU for what was called their ‘intransigence’.

 

If only, if only, there was a consistency and unyieldingness about Greek law making!


One Greek paper wrote how this repeated procedure has eventually led to the loss of the country’s credibility. Adding

‘There is nothing worse than committing to something officially and subsequently not fulfilling your promise.’

And all this while, during the spiraling political panic of 2015 there was an elephant in the room that was ignored until it grew so big that another problem altogether has arrived in Greece.

Meanwhile.....

Refugees and Migrants in the Mediterranean

The Elephant in the Room!




Jan to May 2015

Italy 55,500

Greece 48,000

Spain 1,000

Malta 1,500


















The number of migrants reaching Greece by sea has soared to 63,000 this year, overtaking the 62,000 who arrived in Italy by sea.
The voyage from Libya to Italy is longer and more hazardous. Migrant deaths at sea this year stood at 1,865 by 10 June, the International Organization for Migration (IOM) told the BBC. And of those, 1,816 died trying to reach Italy.

These figures are from the BBC.



Storm Clouds Over Greece

We are all hoping!

Tuesday, 4 August 2015

Bitter Oranges and Marmalade Stories


 Bitter Oranges and Marmalade Stories
 Nerantzia Oranges
Sour oranges are native to China. Trade routes brought them to Africa and the Mediterranean in the 10th Century. Archaeologists suggest that the Bitter Orange or Nerantzia was cultivated in Cyprus as early as 1394 AD. In Jennifer Gay’s book, Greece: Garden of the Gods, I found out that narandj is from an Arabic word meaning a fruit much loved by elephants!

Nerantzi, called kitromilo (or kitromilaki for the small ones) in Cyprus, belong to the citrus family but they are not edible because of their bitterness.

Today in Greece Narantzi trees are more often used as decorative street trees and the ripe fruit left to rot or thrown away however, the small green fruit are made into preserves. Housewives make a spoon sweet with the small unripe, green fruit. (Many other fruits and vegetables are also used to make glyko, whole fruit in syrup.

 









Nerantzi Glyko  (Green Orange Spoon Sweet)

 
Ingredients:
  • 50 small green oranges (walnut size)
  • 2 kilos of sugar
  • 3 cups of water
The juice of 3 – 4 lemons (½lemon juice will be used in the end)
The process requires scooping out the inside of the small green oranges, leaving this case in water and changing the water every day for five days, each day cleaning the inside again. Then they are boiled briefly and each time put back in cold water again for a few days until the skin is soft. Later repeating the brief boiling adding lemon, and lastly adding sugar and boiling for fifteen minutes, this last boiling with sugar is repeated until the liquid is syrupy. And finally the fruit in syrup is bottled.

Seville Oranges

The Spanish bitter orange is known as a Seville Orange and it is the one that most people think of when making marmalade. It was the cultivation of sour orange varieties in the Mediterranean that led to the Seville Orange in the 12th Century. The Seville Orange was the main orange variety in Europe for the next 500 years. It was also one of the first citrus varieties brought to the New World where it was naturalized in the Caribbean, South, Central and North America.

When sweet oranges were introduced to America the sour orange trees began to shift role as an edible fruit to a rootstock. However cross pollination of the sour and sweet orange trees created bitter fruits in sweet orange varieties, which then forced farmers to reduce production of sour orange trees. 

Seville Oranges have a thick, dimpled skin, and are prized for making marmalade. Being higher in pectin than a sweet orange it gives a better set and a higher yield. It is also used for orange-flavoured liqueurs. Once a year, oranges of this variety are collected from trees in Seville and shipped to Britain be used in marmalade, the fruit is rarely consumed in this manner locally in Spain.

On his Lambley Nursery blog David Glen gives his marmalade recipe and also tells some of the story of Seville Oranges.



He writes, ‘The fruit of course is so bitter that it can’t be eaten fresh. It does however make the best marmalade. Until the end of the eighteenth century marmalade was made from quinces and was similar to modern quince paste. In 1797 Janet Keiller, who owned a small shop in Dundee Scotland (she was incidentally one of Monty Don’s forbears) was the first to use Seville oranges to make a preserve or jam. From these small beginnings one of the great jam making business empires developed, James Keiller and Sons.’

 Alexandria, 1940


Takis has told me that he learnt to swim in this bay. He did not live far from the beach. This is what it looked like in the 1940s

Takis mother made glyko, as Greeks are not familiar with jam or marmalade. However during the war years Takis was introduced to marmalade via tins of marmalade that came from Australian for the allied forces in Egypt.

England, 1943


I was born during the Battle of Britain and in 1943 I was sent out of London, by train to the country, with many other children. At that time in England oranges and bananas were rare and exotic fruit. I well remember eating my first ever banana and peach. 

To keep the children healthy during those years babies were given a spoonful a day of a sort of strong orange liquid, sweet and tasty. I was jealous of my sibling getting this, I was only given cod liver oil!

I believe my first taste of marmalade came when visiting my Grandmother and I had some of her homemade variety. Even later oranges were special. I remember them being individually wrapped in a tissue with the name of the grower. When I was a little my friends and I made a practice of collecting orange wrappers. Today you cannot see them, but some folk have kept their collections. One Englishman has a collection with 2,797 different designs - collected by him and his grandfather before him over more than 90 years - all meticulously stuck into albums. 

From the Internet.
‘It was never the custom to wrap more than a few oranges in each crate to make an eye-catching display. But, with the rise of supermarkets, and thicker-skinned oranges even this is now dying out. In more recent times, citrus fruits - such as lemons, oranges, limes and grapefruit - are protected by a thin coat of food-grade wax which prevents moisture loss and mould growth and also minimizes bruising and enhances appearance.

 Lemnos 2015
Loving marmalade as he does Takis found it hard to understand why, when the narantzia, which does so well and is often grown, is not used in Greece to make marmalade in the same way as Seville Oranges. However, having an old Nerantzi tree in our garden, and have planted another, Takis has experimented and found he can make the best marmalade from Nerantzi fruit. Takis (a person given to BIG projects) is now full of the idea of developing this as a project. Who knows we may have a marmalade factory on our property in Lemnos before long!

Takis has been frustrated by the way his arthritis has made it hard to do heavy work, and that the Greek house renovation project has just about finished. So this year his marmalade business has been a perfect project for him and we now have about 30 bottles in Lemnos. And, just to keep his hand in, he bought some Seville oranges in Melbourne (as they have just arrived in the stores) and now we have another 30 or so in a cupboard in Emerald, enough, I think, to last us our lifetime. Though we also give bottles to various people to try. 

Also, now that I’m a diabetic I have to restrict my intake of sugar so Takis made me a batch with fructose that I can smear on.

Though my Sunday treat is a slice of white bread, loads of butter, and a slather of marmalade. Yummy!