Bread Stories 2
Description: Pure yellow flour traditionally
ground from 100% Lemnos hard wheat
Making Bread the Old Way
In a book of Lemnian recipes written by a friend of mine I read
that women baked bread in their households once a week. They’d use either plain
wheat flour or a mixture of wheat and barley flour. The baking was carried out
in traditional ovens, or furnos. I’m sure that the grandmothers of today’s
Lemnians had to use local flour, as it would have been difficult for them to
get flour from other places during the wars.
Boulotis
I also love
his current buns, sliced and toasted. (only one slice for me)
I n stores you can also buy a number of other wheat based traditional dishes.
Fillo
Pastry
Bread (Psomi) from Lemnos
When we first came to live on the island we so much loved having fresh warm bread for breakfast that at half past seven Takis would drive off to get a loaf or two for the day. Often we would slice what we did not eat and freeze it so that when next toasted it tasted fresh. But it still meant that we tended to end up with a lot of bread and I had to find other ways of using it, like bread-and-butter pudding, or rissoles made with mince and breadcrumbs.
When we first came to live on the island we so much loved having fresh warm bread for breakfast that at half past seven Takis would drive off to get a loaf or two for the day. Often we would slice what we did not eat and freeze it so that when next toasted it tasted fresh. But it still meant that we tended to end up with a lot of bread and I had to find other ways of using it, like bread-and-butter pudding, or rissoles made with mince and breadcrumbs.
Lemnos Flour
I buy Lemnian flour form our local grocer. It is said to be ideal for
bread, traditional Greek fillo dough, pizza dough, pasta, dumplings and frying
batter. And, because it is without additives and also a hard wheat flour that has
a low GI rating, it is better than most flours for diabetics.
Lemnian wheat was famous in Classical Greek times
supplying Athens and in Byzantine times
supplying Constantinople . But does it exist
today? How much of local wheat is made from those ancient grains? And anyway,
do the local bakers use local flour?
I’ve spent some time trying
to research these questions BUT, when I tried to find out more about Lemnian
flour from local bakers and housewives I heard so many conflicting stories.
Was it true that one baker
made 80% of his bread with local flour?
Or, was it true as a
neighbour said that the island produces very little flour today, and he’s seen
loads of wheat delivered from the mainland?
Was it true that one
particular baker had a hidden field, where he’d sown some Byzantine seed he’d
obtained from a priest on Mount Athos ?
Or perhaps all the old
grains had been eliminated by decree of the unions who wanted everyone to buy
from allocated seed distributors.
So I think that to some
extent Lemnos Wheat and Lemnos Flour remains a bit of a mystery, and myth.
Probably there is some wheat produced on the island but nowhere near as much as
needed to make all the loaves that are made. And the grains that are used would
not be the same as the original and famous wheat grains. Maybe, somewhere, in
some archive store they have some but…..
As by friend Ourania wrote in her cook book,
‘By tradition, they made their own live yeast from the
holy water and basil plant the parish priest handed out on the 14th September,
when the Orthodox Church honours The Holy Cross.’
Though few local households still make their own bread you can still from several local bakers bread made on the island.
Local Bakers
Though few local households still make their own bread you can still from several local bakers bread made on the island.
Local Bakers
For a small
town there are a lot or bakers. And they do make wonderful fresh bread, especially
compared with that bought in supermarkets.
Boulotis
I’m happy
to make the 15 minute walk to buy Mr. Boulotis small heavy dark rye bread
loaves called Olikis Alesseos or whole grain rye. I find I can eat a small
amount of this even though a diabetic. This baker told me his bakery was begun
by his grandfather in 1923 and he is now handing it on to his son.
Drakos
Takis likes
to buy flat bread from this shop called Zapata. It is down by the port so we
only visit this shop now and then.
We also go
here to buy chocolates from Salonika . These
have crystallised fruit and marzipan in them.
Chrisafis
This bakery
is very well known on the island and there are Chrisafis shops in nearly every
village. It was originally established by a woman and sells a variety of dairy
and bakery products. We go to this shop to buy a small sour dough loaf for
Takis and also Koulourakia, a round bread ring covered with sesame seeds. And
now and then we buy a dark chocolate with walnuts here called Karioka.
Fotiou
I like the
fresh biscuits I bought at this bakery, though it is a bakery we don’t often visit
as it is in another part of town.
Other Local Flour Products
Trahano
Wheat mixed with hot ewe’s milk and then dried in the sun and passed
through thick sieves. This was used to make soups.
F lomaria
This is a kind of pasta that is either cooked on its own and garnished
with cheese or stewed with meat and or with vegetables.
Fillo
Pastry
These are
very thin pastry sheets, which traditionally in Lemnos are then combined with
sesame seeds, almonds and honey to make ‘samsathes’.
Using local flour to make our own pasta products |
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