At sea looking back at Myrina |
One of the roads entering Emerald |
My
last blog was about things that I like about villages – things I’ve found in
both Myrina in Greece and in Emerald in Australia.
However
there are of course many things that are very different. Differences tend to be
the things you first notice when you arrive and one tends to think of them as ‘exotic
and romantic’. The other things (peace and quiet, clean air, larger plots,
friendly neighbours, the slow pace, places to walk, tourist sites and cafes)
are things that you come to appreciate once you’ve realized you choose this
place for a reason.
But
it does no harm to also be aware that it is a different place, and that some
folk are impressed and come to that place for what they see as ‘exotic’ and ‘romantic’
differences.
Hemisphere
This
is perhaps one of the most obvious differences between these two villages. This
means that July is winter in Emerald and summer in Myrina and that as Christmas
comes in December, it is in mid winter in Europe and mid-summer in Australia.
We
are right now heading for Easter. All the images from Europe are about new life
in spring, with Christian connections to the ‘Risen Saviour’, whereas in
Australia it is now autumn. Of course religious images can be drawn from this
season too, as Easter is as much about the death of Jesus as his resurrection
and ascension.
Site
Myrina
is on the island of Lemnos in the Northern Aegean. It is the largest ‘village’ on
the island with a population of 8006. (I do question that number though, as the
size of the town’s population varies greatly from month to month.) Mid-summer
the number swells when locals as well as tourists are in residence and the
number decreases in autumn as first the tourists leave, and many locals return
to their other home, houses or units in Athens or Salonika.
Locals
tend to regard Myrina as a town not a village this is because it has by far the
largest grouping of houses and shops on the island. Plus, it is not easy to
visit other similar sized villages and so Myrina is become a very important
centre.
Emerald
is in the Dandenong forest with a number of smaller and larger villages nearby.
Emerald’s population is about 6800 and stable. Nearby are some larger villages
and some smaller ones, all within easy access. Also many travel from here to
the city of Melbourne for work.
Culture and History
Lemnos
has a very ancient cultural heritage, dating back to an iron-age settlement.
There are ancient historical sites all over the island, and perhaps because folk
have grown so familiar with these sites many sites are not well cared for or
shown off to visitors. Maybe that is beginning to change.
Most visitors want is the sun, beaches and sea-side tavernas |
Emerald
has only a short history compared to Lemnos though, established in 1858, it is
one of the first European settlements established in the mountains. Before this
date aboriginals came to the area in the summer months to hunt and retreat from
the hot plains of Melbourne. Maybe because the recent history is so slight it
is valued, books are available about the settlement of Emerald in the newsagents,
there is a museum and a recently established heritage walk.
Emerald is an area cyclists and walkers love to come to. |
Religion
In
Lemnos there is a unity of rites and rituals all tied to the Greek Orthodox
Church’s yearly calendar. This has significance for all Lemnians, structuring
many of their everyday activities.
In
Emerald there are several churches that have some importance but their impact
is not felt by most citizens.
Weather
Myrina
can have temperatures up to 39C in the summer and down to -5C in the winter,
with some falls of snow. However the temperature does not fluctuate greatly
from day to day. There is a gradual warming until July when it stays steadily
hot for two or three months, then there is a gradual cooling until the winter
months which is when most of the rain falls.
Snow falls and strong winds can keep people indoors in mid-winter |
On
occasions Emerald can have hotter weather than Myrina, perhaps sometimes
hitting 40C, but it does not get cooler than -2C at its worst in winter. And
those variations come suddenly and pass quickly, with a generally a cool and mild
climate that mostly varies from 10 – 25C.
On hot gusty days we need to be prepared to leave the forest. |
Tourists
Myrina
has summer tourists who come for the warm seas and beach life in July and
August. They generally in local hotels and guest rooms stay for at least a week.
Other occasions during the year tend to draw crowds from other parts of the island. |
Emerald
has more day tourists, with motorbike riders and cyclists passing through the
forest at weekends. Also, at weekends families arrive to take a ride on Puffing
Billy.
Locals attending an historic Gallipoli Memorial Day |
Vegetation
On
the whole Lemnos is a dry island with barren hills covered with thyme bushes. There
are also some wide valleys where wheat is planted and vines grow.
Emerald
is in a forest of huge eucalyptus trees and man- tall ferns. In some cleared
areas potatoes are grown, or rows of bulbs, (daffodils and tulips) are grown
for sale.
Food
Myrina
has the usual taverna food, souvlaki and Greek salad, plus some pizza shops and
cafes that sell bougatsa and coffee frappes.
Emerald
has a popular and basic Australian bakery that sells bread and buns. This is
much frequented by the weekend tourists, but also by locals. And recently, as
in most towns and villages in Australia, Indian and Asian restaurants have
opened.
Politics
Lemnos
is not an academic center; most in habitants are farmers and workers. It has a
history that involves being a place where at one time communist supporters were
interned, and the political leaning is still towards socialist parties.
Likewise
Emerald is a place where workers have settled. Puffing Billy once took farm produce to a nearby larger town. Now it is filled with retirees, and
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